Two weeks in Madeira were the perfect opportunity to discover an island that blends dramatic cliffs, subtropical forests, peaceful villages, and the ever-present ocean. With no fixed schedule, we drifted between spectacular hikes, spontaneous swims, culinary discoveries, and quiet moments facing the sea.
This travel diary recounts our journey day by day — the surprises, the small mishaps, and the memorable highlights — offering a genuine glimpse of what this fascinating Portuguese island holds.
Arrival in Madeira and settling into Câmara de Lobos
Saturday was departure day. We were a little anxious about the notoriously delicate landing at Madeira's airport, but in the end everything went smoothly. At the car rental desk, we learned that our vehicle had been upgraded. While the extra space was welcome, we hoped parking would not become an issue.
We drove to Câmara de Lobos, taking a few unintended detours due to a wrong address, followed by a more challenging parking maneuver than expected given the size of the Volkswagen. Our accommodation was a bit disappointing, though perfectly located just 100 meters from the town's restaurants.
Once settled in, we headed to the center for dinner at Gavião do Ilhéu, enjoying a good beef dish, an excellent octopus salad, and a cheesecake to finish. A short walk in the dark, then back to the apartment for the night.
Exploring Câmara de Lobos and relaxing in Ponta do Sol
On Sunday, we found a small local supermarket where we practiced a bit of Portuguese. Fresh fruit, bread, and other delights made for a delicious breakfast before wandering around town.
The center of Câmara de Lobos is genuinely charming, especially under the bright sun. We strolled along the ocean, admiring the small boats, pieces of street art, and the surrounding banana plantations.
Next stop: Ponta do Sol for a relaxing moment by the sea. Public parasols were available, the water was just cool enough for a refreshing swim, and we enjoyed a picnic of baguette and charcuterie from the supermarket.
A walk begins after crossing the tunnel to the west and leads to a waterfall — spectacular according to Instagram, but rather underwhelming in reality. Back in Lobos, we sipped a drink at Bar Coral while watching the sunset, then tested another restaurant, Casa do Farol, which we wouldn't recommend.
Funchal and the magnificent Monte Palace Garden
Monday began again with breakfast on the terrace. We hesitated about the day's plan — Madeira's weather changes quickly and forecasts aren't always reliable. You can also check the real-time webcams to gauge conditions.
We eventually chose Funchal, aiming to visit the famous garden in the hills. We drove straight there, skipping the cable car, which costs €20 per trip! The “typical” basket-sledge descent didn't appeal to us either. The Monte Palace Garden is a vast and stunning space blending Japanese influences, ponds, bridges, and lush vegetation — an absolute must-see.
We then drove back down to the center and found a spot in a large parking lot. A late fish lunch at Bar Ponto Final, a quick stop at the tourist market to try monstera fruit, then a walk to the marina, which wasn't particularly inspiring.
Back to Lobos for a quiet evening and to prepare the rest of our stay.
Eira do Serrado and the wild hike to Boca das Torrinhas
On Tuesday, we left Lobos for Eira do Serrado to admire Curral das Freiras. Guides praise this viewpoint, but reality was disappointing — the scenery is stunning, but the spot is overrun with tourists.
We decided to drive down and improvise a hike after spotting the start of PR2. The 8 km trail, Vereda do Urzal — which we later discovered is partially closed — offered a great out-and-back route through forest and fallen trunks until reaching a beautiful summit and the superb viewpoint of Boca das Torrinhas, where we had lunch.
After hiking back down, we continued toward the north. The landscape becomes much greener. In Boaventura, we discovered our lovely accommodation, Solar de Boaventura, complete with pool, jacuzzi, and sauna.
We enjoyed the setting and headed to Baixas restaurant in Ponta Delgada for dinner, with a superb view and tasty local dishes.
Levada do Caldeirão Verde: 13 km of lush greenery
Wednesday began with the excellent buffet at Solar de Boaventura. We then set off for the famous Levada do Caldeirão Verde (PR9). The hike was long, green, dotted with tunnels and waterfalls. Despite the crowds and the closure of an additional path, we loved it.
On the way back, we stopped at the São Jorge snack bar — authentic and friendly — for freshly made tuna toasts.
The afternoon was all about resting: pool, jacuzzi, relaxation. We returned to Baixas in the evening to try their octopus.
North coast: São Vicente, Seixal and Porto Moniz
On Thursday, we started with a yoga session and another delicious breakfast. We drove calmly to São Vicente, a charming village, before continuing to Seixal and its stunning black sand beach.
It's the perfect place for watching surfers, taking photos, or swimming in the waves.
Then off to Porto Moniz. Its natural pools — partly closed due to weather — are less impressive under a grey sky, though the ocean view from a rooftop bar remained spectacular.
The day ended in São Cristóvão with poncha, dinner, and a sunset over a breathtaking panorama.
Magical sunrise from Pico Ruivo
Friday started early, with breakfast packed by the hotel. We left before 7 a.m. for PR1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo. The road was stressful — our large car struggled with power on the steep climb and overheated. After cooling down on the roadside, we reached the parking area and started hiking.
The stress faded as we climbed through rain with little hope of a view. But soon we rose above the clouds, watching the sky brighten slowly with the first rays of sun. At the summit, bundled up, we enjoyed one of the best moments of the trip: a breathtaking sunrise from the highest point on the island.
We returned to the hotel to rest and enjoy the spa, then took a short coastal walk between Arco and Boaventura before a pleasant dinner at O'Arco.
Levada do Rei and arrival in Porto da Cruz
Saturday was our last breakfast in Boaventura before heading to Levada do Rei (PR18). This 11 km trail is less exciting overall, but rewards those who complete it by offering hidden streams and waterfalls near the end.
Then off to Porto da Cruz for the third stage of the trip. Tired, we cooked dinner ourselves and enjoyed a quiet evening at the apartment. From the terrace, we witnessed an unexpected and rather impressive religious ceremony.
Santo da Serra market and powerful waves in Porto da Cruz
On Sunday, we had breakfast on the terrace and then drove up into the mountains. We discovered the charming Santo da Serra market — partly under renovation — where we bought fruits, jam, and seeds to plant back home.
Returning to Porto da Cruz, we watched the surfers and admired the scenery. Then it was time to jump into the huge waves, which was great fun despite the many rocks and pebbles. We later relaxed with a drink at Waves bar overlooking the sea, followed by a quiet evening.
Ponta de São Lourenço and settling into Calheta
Monday, we set off for PR8 Ponta de São Lourenço. A must-do hike, and the most crowded moment of our trip. Eight kilometers of spectacular cliffs marking the eastern tip of the island. The trail lacks a bit of maintenance at the very end, but nothing too difficult. We swam and had lunch below, though the lizards were a little too enthusiastic.
Then we drove up to Pico do Areeiro, wrapped in heavy clouds but still offering a unique atmosphere. Our biggest regret of these two weeks was the closure of the PR1 trail between the two peaks.
We finally arrived in Arco de Calheta for our last accommodation, with a splendid view of the ocean.
Southwestern coastal villages
On Tuesday, the apartment's huge bay windows allowed us to admire a magnificent sunrise from bed. We visited three charming coastal villages: Calheta and its artificial beach, Jardim do Mar with its flowered lanes, and Paul do Mar.
We enjoyed an excellent lunch at O Farolim — a mix of local and Brazilian cuisine — then attempted the Achadas da Cruz cable car, unfortunately closed for maintenance.
Quiet evening: reading and planning our next hikes.
Rainy day and exploring the Fanal forest
Wednesday began calmly under the rain. We headed toward the Fanal forest, a spot heavily featured on Instagram. Arriving there, we found a landscape unlike the rest of the island — but the lack of fog made the place feel less magical than expected.
After this disappointment, we returned to our beautiful accommodation and spent the afternoon resting, reading, and playing games.
Hike to Lagoa do Vento
Thursday, we left for PR6.2, a lovely 7 km hike. Despite the full parking lot, we saw very few hikers — most had chosen the “Seven Springs” trail. The highlight was undoubtedly Lagoa do Vento, halfway through: stunning and peaceful.
In the afternoon, rain kept us indoors: board games and reading. A quick warning — even though Madeira doesn't have many dangerous animals, it does have large cockroaches and the occasional centipede. You can imagine the scene when they appeared inside…
Stunning PR17 and swimming in Calheta
Friday, we headed out for PR17 Penaculo e Folhadal. The hike was superb — tunnels, waterfalls, stairways, forest passages, and sweeping views. Probably our favorite trail on the island.
Once at the top, we had no desire to walk all the way back. We tried hitchhiking — tricky, since few drivers were heading the right way — walked a bit, and eventually got a lift to Ponta do Sol, from where we took a taxi back to our car.
A quick stop at Calheta beach, then dinner at the semi-gastronomic restaurant Mudas Arte & Sabor, where we sampled beef tongue and banana blossom. Quite expensive and not amazing — we wouldn't recommend it.
Last day and return home
Saturday, our final sunny wake-up before cleaning and packing. We headed northeast for one last hike: Vereda do Larano, a spectacular cliffside trail sadly hidden under clouds.
We had a final meal at O Grelhador near Machico — a large beef skewer — then stopped briefly at the beach, where a running competition was taking place.
At the airport, returning the car was fast. The only hiccup happened at check-in: our suitcase was 7 kg overweight. Likely a scale error — after a few adjustments, it weighed exactly 20 kg. The flight departed on time and went smoothly, marking the end of our journey.
These fifteen days in Madeira offered a perfect blend of adventure, memorable landscapes, and the island's gentle way of life. Between legendary levadas, dramatic cliffs, mystical forests, natural pools, and colorful villages, Madeira enchanted us with its diversity and warm atmosphere.
We return home tired but amazed, already eager to come back and explore what we only scratched the surface of. Madeira is a place to experience as much as to visit — and it truly won us over.
Enjoy your next trip!
