We had the chance to spend 3 weeks on Reunion Island in May, and we are excited to share our complete itinerary, our favorites, and our best recommendations.
This journey includes all the must-see places on the island: the cirques of Mafate, Cilaos, and Salazie, the Piton de la Fournaise, the Piton des Neiges, the magnificent beaches of the west, the impressive waterfalls, local markets, and Creole cuisine.
Idyllic First Day Under the Palms
Our trip started with a smooth landing on the tarmac of Roland Garros Airport in St. Denis. We were welcomed by the island's warmth and the car rental agency Samyloc974 found on rentiles.fr. Complete satisfaction as we set off in an almost new Dacia with a generous plate of local snacks offered by the agency.
We headed west to Ermitage to reach our first accommodation: Les Bougainvilliers. Despite our very early arrival, we could access our room and prepare for our first sunbath.
The St. Gilles market allowed us to taste all sorts of things: samosas, sarcive pork, passion fruits, and guava berries. We returned to the beach for a snorkeling session, rich in fish of all shapes, sizes, and colors.
The evening began with a beautiful sunset over the sea, followed by cocktails at Kazbar. Le Sauvage allowed us to taste our first tuna tataki, the Dalon (local beer), and gnocchi with zurites (octopus).
Three-Star Hike with the Three Basins
The day started with a breakfast of makatia (brioche bread) with coconut, avocado, and passion fruits. We hiked from the snack Les Cormorans for the Three Basins hike. Despite being prohibited due to a slight risk of falling rocks, many tourists dare to venture there.
The first, the lowest, is very beautiful and surrounded by bamboo. The second has a huge waterfall pouring into it, allowing you to swim in its cold waters. The last one is less impressive but allows cliff jumping. Luck was on our side that day as we spotted a beautiful endormi (Creole for chameleon).
Our legs then rested on the beach, enjoying the setting sun. We enjoyed an aperitif before finishing the day with a large Greek salad.
Saint Leu, the Blowhole, and Secret Pools
On the third day on this ever more enchanting island, we woke up peacefully thanks to the sun's rays. Following the advice of a local couple, we reached a "secret" spot south of Saint Leu. This less frequented place is by the sea and houses several small pools formed by overflowing waves. We waded in, watching the crabs and fish while being careful not to touch the sea urchins.
The day continued with a visit to Saint Leu and our first cari. These are the main dishes you can find all over the island, catering to all tastes. We opted for a swordfish cari with extra chili (beware, they are often very hot) and grains (beans or lentils).
Saint Leu has a few small shops and is also known for its Rondavelle on Sunday evenings, offering concerts and a range of dishes and drinks. Nearby, you can also see the Blowhole. A rock formation that, due to its unique shape, expels the largest waves in an impressive jet reminiscent of whale blows.
Our evening meal was at La Varangue du Lagon. We first tried a Kalou, an improved version of the ti-punch, before moving on to a grilled carangue dish. It's quite common for restaurateurs to offer arranged rum as a digestif, and we always accepted, allowing us to taste various varieties.
Hike of the Canalization of Orangers and Mafate
We began this Labor Day with a stop at the bakery for breakfast pastries and to prepare our lunch. We then met up with two couples of friends for our first hike in one of the cirques of La Reunion. Starting from Sans Soucis, we followed the beautiful Canalization of Orangers trail, named after the historic works that transported water to several critical points.
The view was splendid and intensified as we progressed, eventually finding ourselves in the middle of the Cirque de Mafate. Helicopters, delivering essentials to this car-inaccessible place, came and went, as did the large spiders called Bibs, as frightening as they are harmless.
After 10 km, we reached Roche Plate and our lodge, Mahafaty. The welcoming hosts sold us dodos (Creole nickname for beers) which we followed with a much-needed (cold) shower. The evening meal, cooked by our hosts, was delicious; from chouchou gratin (a mild local vegetable), macras, pork cari, and chouchou cake, we were spoiled.
After some more chatting with our lodge neighbors, we went to bed to be in shape for the next day's challenge.
Climbing Maido and Saint Pierre
We woke up very early, hoping to enjoy the spectacle of a sunrise amidst this lush nature. However, the mountains and clouds had other plans. Our host told us some stories about his life in Mafate while we waited for breakfast.
We then set off for a major ascent, that of Maido. Retracing our steps from the previous day to reach the Brèche, the rest of the hike was marked by a steep but beautiful path. After 10 kilometers and 1000m elevation gain, we reached the summit, marked by a recent fire and construction, but still retaining its splendor.
We took advantage of generous tourists offering carpooling to get closer to our car left the day before. In the late afternoon, we reached our hotel in Saint Pierre, Le Battant des Lames, which was overall disappointing. However, we enjoyed the pool and had some local fritters while watching the sunset before heading to the city center.
L'épicurieux hosted us that evening for a flawless dinner. Delicious Pina colada, followed by a duo of tataki, tuna, and duck, all accompanied by impeccable service.
Café Grillé domain
A very pleasant wake-up enjoying the terrace of our room with some pastries and fruit juice. Once full, we went to the Domaine du Café Grillé. Hundreds of species of trees, palms, flowers, fruits, and some lizards and birds passed before our eyes. The tour of the estate ended with a tasting of shortbread and coffees grown and prepared on-site.
We returned to Saint Pierre for the afternoon, with a lunch consisting of a variety of fritters: samosas, chili candies, and stuffed eggplants. We also lounged on the hot sand and in the clear water full of fish.
The evening started with a beautiful sunset and a Spot beer. This was followed by an easy meal at Cap Méchant: bol renversé and sautéed chicken.
Saint Pierre Market and Etang Salé
Friday means market day in Saint Pierre. We found sweet potato cakes and fresh fruit juice for breakfast and stocked up on fruits for the coming days. It's very pleasant to observe the local craft stalls, between sculptures and weaving.
The Indian influence is felt on the island, and we visited one of the town's Tamil temples. Make sure to cover your legs and arms well, or you may be denied entry.
Back at the market, we stood in a long line rewarded with delicious chicken skewers, a Tahitian salad, and a very spicy achar salad.
After a failed attempt to reach the Saline les Bains beach, we decided to take a short walk around the Etang Salé gorge. We watched a beautiful sunset before returning to the hotel for the evening.
Piton de la Fournaise
A special day aiming for the ascent of Piton de la Fournaise, waking up before dawn. It's better to rise early to hope for a clear summit. After more than an hour of driving, mostly in gray clouds, we finally emerged above the fog on the Fournaise plateau, giving the impression of being on Mars.
A long hike to the summit of the piton with very changeable but overall positive weather. The scenery varied greatly, shaped by the history of eruptions and lava flows, some recent, some ancient. A beautiful rainbow motivated us on this quest until we reached the summit, impressive in its grandeur and altitude. The return was less interesting as there is no loop trail, covering 11 km and 520 m of elevation gain.
We reached our third accommodation, Le Chalet L in Ravine des Cabris, near Le Tampon. A beautiful apartment surrounded by greenery, visible from the terrace and a cute pool.
We watched the sunset from the fabulous Grande Anse beach before returning to Saint Pierre to dine at L'épicurieux, indulging this time with a seafood platter.
Trou de Fer
A new day and another early wake-up to increase our chances of seeing the Trou de Fer without mist or clouds. 1.5 hours of driving under the clear morning sky, partly through Cilaos, to reach the Belouve lodge, the starting point of our hike.
Although the national forest office discouraged the hike due to cyclone damage to part of the trail, we ventured on. The Belouve forest surrounded us throughout, transporting us with its primeval plants and trees. Only one passage proved dangerous, but the only risk was ending up in the mud.
At the end, we admired the island's largest waterfall from our viewpoint, with a sufficiently clear view. Helicopters came and went, and after some photos and a little rest, we headed back. No loop trail as the other path was in worse condition, so we retraced our steps.
The day ended calmly with a filling chop suey, some pool time to rest our legs, and finally, an aperitif followed by a salad on the terrace of our accommodation to end the evening.
Resting and Grande Anse
A lazy morning to recover from past nights followed by a delicious breakfast of passion fruit and coconut. I recommend the experience of opening a coconut yourself to understand the challenge. Follow tutorials if you don't want to spend an hour on it like I did...
A visit to Sabrina's workshop near Saint Pierre for some great deals on souvenirs to bring back from La Reunion for your loved ones. Between jewelry, clothes, and wooden crafts, there’s something to satisfy you.
A small failure trying to reach Basin 18: the wind, much too strong, scares us off in the descent of the cliff. The Grande Anse beach a bit further away becomes our plan B for some splashing in the basin and crossword puzzles.
A little cocktail at the beach bar allows us to celebrate yet another sunset and our stomachs then guide us to Saint Pierre to enjoy good burgers at L'Atelier.
Feet in the Water of Bras de la Plaine
Leftover coconut accompanied by pastries makes up our breakfast, which will be very useful for the hike of the day. Starting from a small church upstream of the Bras de la Plaine, the route is very pleasant despite its extremes marked by significant elevation changes.
We willingly lose sight of the main path once our feet are in the riverbed for a slight canyoning experience. The cool but invigorating water feels good on our legs and forces us to be careful not to soak our belongings.
Late afternoon at the pool of our accommodation, under a bright sun, alternating laps and crossword puzzles. We also stayed quiet in the evening to fine-tune the rest of the trip and share what was left in the fridge.
Parc des Palmiers and Cilaos' road
After waking up earlier than expected, we set off to visit Parc des Palmiers even before breakfast. Hundreds of different palm trees, well-maintained and arranged along multiple paths. The site has recently expanded as we observe younger palms. The park is also a well-known spot for running, with distance markers on various routes.
Back on our beloved terrace, we enjoyed delicious local fruits with rolls, which ultimately served as brunch. We lounged by the pool soaking up the sun before packing up and heading to Cilaos.
The road with 100 bends is stunningly beautiful. We quickly plunged into narrow bends that are somewhat stressful, preventing us from fully enjoying the view. Vertiginous mountains covered with vegetation follow one another and accompany us to Cilaos.
We arrived in the late afternoon and highly recommend avoiding this road at night. For safety reasons, but also to fully enjoy the multiple viewpoints it offers.
We met up with friends at a lodge, and after a good homemade meal, we went to bed early to anticipate the next day’s challenge...
The Challenge of Piton des Neiges
There are several ways to tackle the island's biggest challenge. The starting point can be from Mafate, Salazie, or Cilaos. One must also decide whether to make the round trip in one go or split the effort over two days with a night in the refuge. We chose the difficult option due to scheduling reasons, and we advise against it unless you are in very good physical condition.
We woke up at 1 AM after only a few hours of sleep. We jumped into our sneakers, didn’t forget our headlamp, warm clothes (for the summit), camel bag, and snacks. We set off at a good pace for this mythical hike of about 16 km and 1800 m of positive elevation gain.
The first part is through a forest, and although we couldn't see anything except the path lit by our lamps, we did spot a small tangue (a type of hedgehog) at one point. After 3 hours, we reached the famous lodge, and the sign informed us that there was 1.5 hours left, while the sky was still black and filled with stars. We could even observe the Milky Way due to the clear skies.
The second part of the ascent is marked by numerous small rocks that don't reassure with each new step. Thus, it is all the more tiring as you must maintain your balance. The dawn begins to break, and our pace increases to allow us to arrive just in time for sunrise. It’s freezing at the summit, so we change and add a few layers to enjoy the view. Partly covered, it is still a breathtaking view of the island, with pink and orange hues boosting our morale.
The descent is treacherous and seems endless. We thought the hardest part was the climb, but it wasn’t. We finally reached the end to the great joy of the entire team. It was only 11 AM.
The rest of the day was spent resting. A burger lunch at Cilaosien by the lake of Cilaos and then heading to our accommodation La Belle Créole. Dinner was at La Marmite du Cap for a delicious vanilla chicken and goat massalé.
Relaxing in Cilaos
The day after this intense and shifted day, we regain our strength with a day of recharging our batteries. We are interested to discover that a women’s trail run is taking place in Cilaos, and we take the opportunity to watch the last kilometers, cheering on the leading runners.
The weather is perfect, with a clear sky allowing us to picnic on a patch of grass along the lake. We then do a bit of souvenir shopping in the various attractive shops.
We end this day with a meal at a restaurant overlooking the lake: Le Cottage. A satisfying and very hearty menu consisting of a chayote gratin, swordfish, and finally a tarte tatin.
Natural slides at Bassin la Roche
Our busy day kicks off with a delicious breakfast of cakes from Tatie Rosine. As it’s market day on Sunday, we do some souvenir shopping before heading out on a hike.
We set off towards Bras Rouge but alter our route slightly after crossing the river, following an unmaintained trail. This leads us to a stunning spot where another stream carves natural toboggans into the rock. We bravely slide down, despite the icy cold water.
Forced to return the same way, we bid farewell to the sublime cirque of Cilaos, savoring its landscapes one last time. We reach Vincendo and spend a peaceful evening in our accommodation, indulging in some pizzas.
Langevin, its Waterfalls, River, and Manapany
An early start takes us to the bakery for some take-away pastries. We reach the top of the Langevin River and its impressive Grand Galet waterfall, remarkable for its size and multiple cascades. Further down, we follow an unmaintained but safe trail to the Trou Noir waterfall.
Descending towards the sea, we witness numerous rocks being pounded by the waves. We stumble upon pools formed by these waves, housing beautiful corals, sea urchins, and colorful fish.
We finally dip our feet in the Langevin River, following a small path along the river. We observe one last waterfall, Jacqueline, and many paille-en-queue, endemic birds of La Réunion.
Manapany welcomes us for a late lunch at Chez Jo, where we enjoy a delicious rougail saucisse while watching the sea and the pool. After a quick swim, we return to our Kaz to rest.
Lava road and Hell-Bourg
We leave Vincendo this morning to explore the Route des Laves, making multiple stops to admire the views of the lava flows from the island’s major volcanic eruptions.
One of the most remarkable stops was the Tremblet beach with its black sand, accessible via a small paved path. We follow the waves to a red spot in the distance, which, after passing many remnants of the 2007 lava flow, turns out to be a shipwreck. To avoid retracing our steps, we decide to climb back up the lava flow. We advise against this as it takes more time due to some difficult and even dangerous sections.
Another notable stop is Notre Dame des Laves, a village destroyed by a lava flow except for a church. Blessed by grace, this monument is now surrounded by recent constructions, including restaurants where we grab some sandwiches.
We continue on the road to the cirque of Salazie, beautifully green and vertiginous, with multiple waterfalls. We are left speechless by the Voile de la Mariée waterfall. We take a small detour to visit the charming village of Hell Bourg with its typical Creole houses (kaz).
We end this long day by reaching Grand-ilet and our guest house Les Sommets de Salazie. With a warm welcome and impeccable room, we join another couple and our host for dinner. We highly recommend this place for its quality and friendliness.
Quick return to Mafate via the Scout Trail
We start this day with a hearty breakfast filled with homemade or local products. We leave this cozy nest to head to the start of a long hike: the Scout Trail. We fully enjoy the clear sky over this part of the island, offering superb viewpoints. We also see many flowers and plants, including the famous chouchous.
After 3 hours, we reach the ilets Malheur and Aurere, in the heart of Mafate. We take a break with some sandwiches and witness two helicopter landings in quick succession.
We forgo the Augustave trail as it is known to be dangerous and not maintained by the authorities. We head back, enjoying the views in reverse. After 2.5 hours, we are back at the car, our legs tired but satisfied with our last big hike.
A long drive takes us to the other side of the island to revisit our favorite spot from the beginning of the trip: St Gilles. This time we stay at the Tropic Appart Hotel, which is satisfactory and incredibly well-located near the beach. We have a drink on the terrace of the Métis restaurant before enjoying a good risotto with fish.
Sunbathing at Boucan Canot
After breakfast on our room's terrace, we head to Boucan Canot beach. We missed it in the first week and are very happy to have time to visit.
We enjoy the fine sandy beach and sunbathe a bit. We try the supervised sea area with a shark net, avoiding the backwash from the massive waves, though one of us loses a bracelet... There is also a charming pool built into the rock, allowing for stress-free enjoyment of the water.
We relax on the terrace of the Ti Boucan restaurant for a delicious meal with fried smelts as an appetizer and a variety of tartares as the main course. Avocado, wazamé, wasabi, and pineapple tartares—all are delicious, just like their mojitos.
After a second stint on the beach and in the pool, we return to Ti Boucan to enjoy the tiramisu that caught our eye at noon while watching a fabulous sunset. What a life!
Helicopter Tour
After much discussion, we finally decide to splurge on a helicopter tour. We head to the Saint Pierre heliport, specifically to the Run Hélico company. It’s best to book your tour in advance due to high demand and possible weather-related postponements.
We were lucky to fly on our desired day thanks to excellent weather. We chose this company for its good reviews and slightly lower prices for a 45-minute tour. A slight disappointment was not being seated next to the windows.
We are a bit nervous and shaken at takeoff for our first helicopter ride. We soon enjoy the pilot’s knowledge as he shares information about the views passing by. It’s also nice to see all the key spots from our vacation from above.
The tour is incredible, covering the three cirques: Cilaos, Mafate, and Salazie, the Bebour and Bélouve forests, the beaches, but two spots stand out. The Trou de Fer, which we had seen from afar on a hike, can now be admired from all angles, showcasing its grandeur. And the Piton de la Fournaise volcano, viewed from above, reveals the site’s immensity and the dozens of craters that have shaped the island.
After this exhilarating experience, we have delicious chicken and avocado sandwiches and head to the Saint Pierre covered market for quality souvenirs. We spend the afternoon on the Hermitage beach, sunbathing and snorkeling, enjoying the beauty of the fish.
We end this beautiful day with a meal at Au Badamier, where we savor grilled squid couscous followed by a surprising dessert combining lemon and peanuts.
Saint Paul Market and Saint Gilles
On our last relaxing day, we woke up leisurely and headed to the Saint Paul market to enjoy more fruits and samosas. We decided to take a quick tour of the shops in Saint Gilles and shared a cocktail on a terrace, watching surfers in the distance.
We returned to our favorite beach in Saint Gilles les Bains and l'Ermitage to put our eyes back in the water and observe all the underwater life. We couldn't resist the delicious ice creams at La Glacerie with flavors of Bourbon vanilla and cocoa.
We ended the day by returning to the Métis restaurant to enjoy an excellent tuna tartare meal and a cool concert organized every Saturday by a local band covering past rock hits.
We'll spare you the details of our last day, marked by the stress of losing our car keys followed by a last-minute check-in for the flight. We advise you to allow plenty of time for all your travel steps, both outgoing and returning. Nothing beats a calm return.
Our trip to Réunion Island was a true odyssey through varied and spectacular landscapes, from idyllic beaches to majestic peaks, impressive waterfalls, and lush forests.
We leave with hearts full of unforgettable memories and minds marked by the raw beauty and diversity of this unique island. Réunion is not just a dream destination; it's a real journey into the heart of nature, culture, and adventure. We hope our story inspires you to discover the wonders of this extraordinary island yourself.
